In 2021, the government of Mexico formally accused major clothing brands Zara, Anthropologie, and Patowl of appropriating indigenous designs, escalating a debate often dismissed as mere 'cancel culture' to the level of international diplomacy. The accusation, lodged against global retail giants, underscored how the commercialization of sacred patterns can ignite cross-border disputes and challenge corporate practices. Many often view cultural exchange as a positive, natural process, a sign of global interconnectedness; however, when elements are taken from marginalized groups by dominant ones, it frequently results in significant offense and perceived harm. As global cultural exchange accelerates, the need for critical awareness of power dynamics and historical context in cultural adoption will only grow, leading to more frequent public challenges against perceived appropriation.
Defining the Line: Appropriation vs. Appreciation
The issue extends beyond international disputes to individual instances, as seen with Michael B. Jordan's rum brand J'ouvert. Named after a Trinidadian holiday, the brand faced criticism for its marketing campaign tagline 'J'OUVERT Rum is a tribute to the party start,' which was seen as reducing the holiday's significance, The Conversation reported. The case of Michael B. Jordan's rum brand J'ouvert shows how even well-intentioned acts can be perceived as appropriation when they strip cultural elements of deeper meaning. Respect for cultural meaning, not just the racial identity of the perpetrator, is a critical factor in how appropriation is perceived.
The Art of Offense: When Creativity Crosses a Line
In 2017, Hannah Black urged Whitney Biennial curators to destroy Dana Schutz's painting 'Open Casket,' ARTnews reported. The painting depicted Emmett Till, a Black teenager lynched in 1955, sparking intense debate about who can represent Black trauma. Hannah Black's demand for destruction reveals the profound violation and pain felt when art exploits or misrepresents a marginalized group's suffering. For these communities, appropriating trauma isn't an artistic freedom debate; it's a violation demanding restorative justice, not just an apology.
Perception and Power: Who Defines Appropriation?
Perception of cultural appropriation is not universal; racial identity and power dynamics heavily influence it. Black participants were more likely than White participants to view incidents as appropriation when White perpetrators took from Black culture, compared to Black perpetrators taking from White culture, PubMed found. The disparity in perception found by PubMed shows the identity of both the appropriator and the appropriated culture is crucial in defining harm. Black participants also perceived White actors who appropriated Black culture as more harmful and intentional than White participants did, PubMed reported. The racial asymmetry in perception means the debate isn't about universal moral principles, but a specific, racially charged lens. 'Cultural appreciation' often remains inaccessible to dominant groups engaging with marginalized cultures without explicit consent or deep understanding.
